I got this from my friend Wendy and wanted to save it here so I'd know right where it was quick for reference!
**I am not the author of this document.. I have no idea who is, a friend sent me this info several years ago** :)
COMPANION PLANTING Many plants have natural
substances in their roots, flowers, leaves etc. that can alternately
repel (anti-feedants) and/or attract insects depending on your needs. In
some situations they can also help enhance the growth rate and flavor
of other varieties. Experience shows us that using companion planting
through out the landscape is an important part of integrated pest
management. In essence companion planting helps bring a balanced
eco-system to your landscape, allowing nature to do its' job. Nature
integrates a diversity of plants, insects, animals, and other organisms
into every ecosystem so there is no waste. The death of one organism can
create food for another, meaning symbiotic relationships all around. We
consider companion planting to be a holistic concept due to the many
intricate levels in which it works with the ecology.
By using companion planting, many gardeners find that they can
discourage harmful pests without losing the beneficial allies. There are
many varieties of herbs, flowers, etc. that can be used for companion
plants. Be open to experimenting and find what works for you. Some
possibilities would be using certain plants as a border, backdrop or
interplanting in your flower or vegetable beds where you have specific
needs. Use plants that are native to your area so the insects you want
to attract already know what to look for! Plants with open cup shaped
flowers are the most popular with beneficial insects.
Companion planting can combine beauty and purpose to give you an
enjoyable, healthy environment. Have fun, let your imagination soar.
There are many ways you can find to incorporate these useful plants in
your garden, orchard, flower beds etc.
Note: This guide is not intended to solve garden problems as
the suggestions may work differently in various situations or perhaps
not at all. Don't let that discourage you from giving the ideas a try!
What works for some may not work for others and vice versa.
Experimenting is the only way we can gain new insight for our own
individual gardens.
PLANT GUIDE
ALFALFA: Perennial that roots deeply. Fixes the soil
with nitrogen, accumulates iron, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium.
Withstands droughts with it's long taproot and can improve just about
any soil! Alfalfa has the ability to break up hard clay soil and can
even send its' roots through rocks! Now that is a tenacious plant!
Alfalfa is practically pest and disease free. It needs only natural
rainfall to survive.
AMARANTH: A tropical annual that needs hot
conditions to flourish. Good with sweet corn, it's leaves provide shade
giving the corm a rich, moist root run. Host to predatory ground
beetles. Eat the young leaves in salads.
ANISE: Licorice flavored herb, good host for
predatory wasps which prey on aphids and it is also said to repel
aphids. Deters pests from brassicas by camouflaging their odor. Improves
the vigor of any plants growing near it. Used in ointments to protect
against bug stings and bites. Good to plant with coriander.
ARTEMISIAS: see WORMWOOD
ASPARAGUS: Friends: Aster family flowers, dill
,coriander, tomatoes, parsley, basil, comfrey and marigolds. Avoid:
Onions, garlic and potatoes.
BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and
flavor. Basil also does well with peppers, oregano, asparagus and
petunias. Basil can be helpful in repelling thrips. It is said to repel
flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue or sage.
BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each storage
container of beans or grains will deter weevils and moths. Sprinkle
dried leaves with other deterrent herbs in garden as natural insecticide
dust. A good combo: Bay leaves, cayenne pepper, tansy and peppermint.
- For ladybug invasions try spreading bay leaves around in your house anywhere they are getting in and congregating. They should leave.
BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen
fixed form the air. In general they are good company for carrots,
celery, chards, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes, brassicas, beets,
radish, strawberry and cucumbers. Beans are great for heavy nitrogen
users like corn and grain plants because beans fix nitrogen from the air
into the soil so the nitrogen used up by the corn and grains are
replaced at the end of the season when the bean plants die back. French
Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo. Summer savory
deters bean beetles and improves growth and flavor. Keep beans away from
the alliums.
BEE BALM (Oswego, Monarda): Plant with tomatoes to
improve growth and flavor. Great for attracting beneficials and bees of
course. Pretty perennial that tends to get powdery mildew.
BEET: Good for adding minerals to the soil. The
leaves are composed of 25% magnesium making them a valuable addition to
the compost pile if you don't care to eat them. Beets are also
beneficial to beans with the exception of runner beans. Runner or pole
beans and beets stunt each other's growth. Companions for beets are
lettuce, onions and brassicas. Beets and kohlrabi grow perfectly
together. Beets are helped by garlic and mints. Garlic improves growth
and flavor. Rather than planting invasive mints around beets use your
mint clippings as a mulch.
BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash,
strawberries and most plants. Deters tomato hornworms and cabbage worms.
One of the best bee and wasp attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to
the soil and a good addition the compost pile. The leaves contain
vitamin C and are rich in calcium, potassium and mineral salts. Borage
may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing resistance to
pests and disease. It also makes a nice mulch for most plants. Borage
and strawberries help each other and strawberry farmers always set a few
plants in their beds to enhance the fruits flavor and yield. Plant near
tomatoes to improve growth and disease resistance. After you have
planned this annual once it will self seed. Borage flowers are edible.
BRASSICA: Benefit from chamomile, peppermint, dill,
sage, and rosemary. They need rich soil with plenty of lime to flourish.
Avoid planting with mustards, nightshades (tomatoes, peppers, etc).
BUCKWHEAT: Accumulates calcium and can be grown as
an excellent cover crop. Attracts hoverflies in droves. (Member of the
brassica family.)
CABBAGE: Celery, dill, onions and potatoes are good
companion plants. Celery improves growth and health. Clover interplanted
with cabbage has been shown to reduce the native cabbage aphid and
cabbageworm populations by interfering with the colonization of the
pests and increasing the number of predatory ground beetles. Plant
Chamomile with cabbage as it Improves growth and flavor. Cabbage does
not get along with strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, rue,
grapes and pole beans.
CARAWAY: Good for loosening compacted soil with it's
deep roots so it's also compatible next to shallow rooted crops. Plant
it with strawberries. Caraway can be tricky to establish. The flowers
attract a number of beneficial insects especially the tiny parasitic
wasps. Keep it away from dill and fennel.
CARROTS: Their pals are leaf lettuce, onions and
tomatoes. Plant dill and parsnips away from carrots. Flax produces an
oil that may protect root vegetables like carrots from some pests. One
drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth
of your carrots but the carrots will still be of good flavor.
CATNIP: Deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese
beetles, squash bugs, ants and weevils. We have found it repels mice
quite well: mice were wreaking havoc in our outbuildings, we spread
sprigs of mint throughout and the mice split! Use sprigs of mint
anywhere in the house you want deter mice and ants. Smells good and very
safe.
CELERY: Companions: Bean, cabbage family, leek,
onion, spinach and tomato. Flowers for celery: cosmos, daisies and
snapdragons. Foe: Corn.
CHAMOMILE, GERMAN: Annual. Improves flavor of
cabbages, cucumbers and onions. Host to hoverflies and wasps.
Accumulates calcium, potassium and sulfur, later returning them to the
soil. Increases oil production from herbs. Leave some flowers unpicked
and German chamomile will reseed itself. Roman chamomile is a low
growing perennial that will tolerate almost any soil conditions. Both
like full sun. Growing chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for
anything you grow in the garden.
CHARDS: Companions: Bean, cabbage family and onion.
CHERVIL: Companion to radishes, lettuce and broccoli
for improved growth and flavor. Keeps aphids off lettuce. Said to deter
slugs. Likes shade.
CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots and
tomatoes. A friend to apples, carrots, tomatoes, brassica (broccoli,
cabbage, mustard, etc) and many others. Keeps aphids help to keep aphids
away from tomatoes, mums and sunflowers. Chives may drive away Japanese
beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted among apple trees it helps prevent
scab and among roses it prevents black spot. You will need patience as
it takes about 3 years for plantings of chives to prevent the 2
diseases. A tea of chives may be used on cucumbers and gooseberries to
prevent downy and powdery mildews. Avoid planting near beans and peas.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS: C. coccineum kills root nematodes.
(the bad ones) It's flowers along with those of C. cineraruaefolium have
been used as botanical pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White
flowering chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles. To the right is a
picture of the painted daisy from which pyrethrum is extracted.
CLOVER: Long used as a green manure and plant
companion and is especially good to plant under grapevines. Attracts
many beneficials. Useful planted around apple trees to attract predators
of the woolly aphid. Clover interplanted with cabbage has been shown to
reduce the native cabbage aphid and cabbageworm populations by
interfering with the colonization of the pests and increasing the number
of predator ground beetles.
COMFREY: Accumulates calcium, phosphorous and
potassium. Likes wet spots to grow in. Comfrey is beneficial to avocado
and most other fruit trees. Traditional medicinal plant. Good trap crop
for slugs.
CORIANDER: Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle. A tea from this can be used as a spray for spider mites. A partner for anise.
CORN: Amaranth, beans, cucumber, white geranium,
lamb's quarters, melons, morning glory, parsley, peanuts, peas, potato,
pumpkin, soybeans, squash and sunflower. A classic example is to grow
climbing beans up corn while inter-planting pumpkins. The corn provides a
natural trellis for the beans, pumpkins smother the weeds and helps
corn roots retain moisture. Corn is a heavy feeder and the beans fix
nitrogen from air into the soil. The beans do not feed the corn will it
is growing but when the bean plants die back they return nitrogen to the
soil that was used up by the corn. A win-win situation. Another
interesting helper for corn is the weed Pig's Thistle which raises
nutrients from the subsoil to where the corn can reach them. Keep corn
away from celery and tomato plants.
COSTMARY: This 2-3 foot tall perennial of the chrysanthemum family helps to repel moths.
CUCUMBERS: Cucumbers are great to plant with corn
and beans. The three plants like the same conditions warmth, rich soil
and plenty of moisture. Let the cucumbers grow up and over your corn
plants. A great duet is to plant cukes with sunflowers. The sunflowers
provide a strong support for the vines. Cukes also do well with peas,
beets, radishes and carrots. Radishes are a good deterrent against
cucumber beetles. Dill planted with cucumbers helps by attracting
beneficial predators. Nasturtium improves growth and flavor. Keep sage,
potatoes and rue away from cucumbers.
DAHLIAS: These beautiful, tuberous annuals that can have up to dinner plate size flowers repels nematodes!
DILL: Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not
plant near carrots, caraway or tomatoes. Best friend for lettuce.
Attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Repels aphids and spider mites
to some degree. Also may repel the dreaded squash bug! (scatter some
good size dill leaves on plants that are suspect to squash bugs, like
squash plants.) Dill goes well with lettuce, onions, cabbage, sweet corn
and cucumbers. Dill does attract the tomato horn worm so it would be
useful to plant it somewhere away from your tomato plants to keep the
destructive horn worm away from them. Do plant dill in an appropriate
spot for the swallowtail butterfly caterpillars to feed on. Even their
caterpillars are beautiful.
EGGPLANT: Plant with amaranth, beans, peas, spinach,
tarragon, thyme and marigold. Eggplant is a member of the nightshade
family and does well with peppers. Avoid planting fennel near eggplant.
ELDERBERRY: A spray
made from the leaves can be used against aphids, carrot root fly,
cucumber beetles and peach tree borers. Put branches and leaves in mole
runs to banish them. Elderberry leaves added to the compost pile speeds
up the decomposing process.
FLAX: Plant with carrots, and potatoes. Flax
contains tannin and linseed oils which may offend the Colorado potato
bug. Flax is an annual from 1-4 feet tall with blue or white flowers
that readily self sows.
FOUR-O'CLOCKS: Draws Japanese beetles like a magnet
which then dine on the foliage. The foliage is pure poison to them and
they won't live to have dessert! It is important to mention that Four
O'clock are also poisonous to humans and animals. Please be careful
where you plant them if you have children and pets. They are a beautiful
annual plant growing from 2-3 feet high with a bushy growth form.
GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel
aphids. It also benefits apple trees, pear trees, cucumbers, peas,
lettuce and celery. Garlic accumulates sulfur: a naturally occurring
fungicide which will help in the garden with disease prevention. Garlic
is systemic in action as it is taken up the plants through their pores
and when garlic tea is used as a soil drench it is also taken up by the
plant roots. Has value in offending codling moths, Japanese beetles,
root maggots, snails, and carrot root fly. Researchers have observed
that time-released garlic capsules planted at the bases of fruit trees
actually kept deer away. It's certainly worth a try! Concentrated
garlic sprays have been observed to repel and kill whiteflies, aphids
and fungus gnats among others with as little as a 6-8% concentration! It
is safe for use on orchids too.
GERANIUM: -Repels cabbage worms and Japanese
beetles, plant around grapes, roses, corn, tomatoes, peppers and
cabbage. Geraniums help to distract beet leafhoppers, which are the
carriers of the curly top leaf virus.
GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.
GRAPES: Hyssop is beneficial to grapes as are basil,
beans, geraniums, oregano, clover, peas, or blackberries. Keep radishes
and cabbage away from grapes. Planting clover increases the soil
fertility for grapes. Chives with grapes help repel aphids. Plant your
vines under Elm or Mulberry trees.
HEMP: Repels many types of beetles which attack brassicas.
HORSERADISH: Plant in containers in the potato patch
to keep away Colorado potato bugs. Horseradish increases the disease
resistance of potatoes. There are some very effective insect sprays that
can be made with the root. Use the bottomless pot method to keep
horseradish contained. Also repels Blister beetles. We have observed
that the root can yield anti-fungal properties when a tea is made from
it.
GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.
GRAPES: Hyssop is beneficial to grapes as are basil,
beans, geraniums, oregano, clover, peas, or blackberries. Keep radishes
and cabbage away from grapes. Planting clover increases the soil
fertility for grapes. Chives with grapes help repel aphids. Plant your
vines under Elm or Mulberry trees.
LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an
herbal powder mixture to deter many bugs. Lemon balm has citronella
compounds that make this work: crush and rub the leaves on your skin to
keep mosquitoes away! Use to ward off squash bugs!
LETTUCE: Does well with beets, bush beans, pole
beans, cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, onion, radish and strawberries. It
grows happily in the shade under young sunflowers.
LOVAGE: Improves flavor and health of most plants.
Good habitat for ground beetles. A large plant, use one planted as a
backdrop. Similar to celery in flavor.
MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a
pest deterrent. Keeps soil free of bad nematodes; supposed to discourage
many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden. The marigolds you
choose must be a scented variety for them to work. One down side is that
marigolds do attract spider mites and slugs.
- French Marigold (T. patula) has roots that
exude a substance which spreads in their immediate vicinity killing
nematodes. For nematode control you want to plant dense areas of them.
There have been some studies done that proved this nematode killing
effect lasted for several years after the plants were These marigolds
also help to deter whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be
used in greenhouses for the same purpose. Whiteflies hate the smell of
marigolds. Do not plant French marigolds next to bean plants.
- Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful
of the insect repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such
as bind weed! It is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild
bunnies! Be careful it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like
beans and cabbage.
MARJORAM: As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables and herbs. Sweet marjoram is the most commonly grown type.
MELONS: Companions: Corn, pumpkin, radish and
squash. Other suggested helpers for melons are as follows: Marigold
deters beetles, nasturtium deters bugs and beetles. Oregano provides
general pest protection.
MINT: Deters white cabbage moths, ants, rodents,
flea beetles, fleas, aphids and improves the health of cabbage and
tomatoes. Use cuttings as a mulch around members of the brassica family.
It attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Earthworms are quite
attracted to mint plantings. Be careful where you plant it as mint is an
incredibly invasive perennial. We have found that placing mint (fresh
or dried) where mice are a problem is very effective in driving them
off!
MOLE PLANTS: (castor bean plant) Deter moles and
mice if planted here and there throughout the garden. Drop a seed of
this in mole runs to drive them away. This is a poisonous plant.
MORNING GLORIES: They attract hoverflies. Plus if you want a fast growing annual vine to cover something up morning glory is an excellent choice.
NASTURTIUMS: Plant as a barrier around tomatoes,
cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Do not plant near
cauliflower. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies, squash bug, cucumber
beetles and other pests of the cucurbit family. Great trap crop for
aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it does attract,
especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor soil with low
moisture and no fertilizer. It has been the practice of some fruit
growers that planting nasturtiums every year in the root zone of fruit
trees allow the trees to take up the pungent odor of the plants and
repel bugs. Studies say it is among the best at attracting predatory
insects. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A nice variety to grow is
Alaska which has attractive green and white variegated leaves. The
leaves, flowers and seeds of nasturtiums are all edible and wonderful in
salads!
NETTLES, STINGING: The flowers attract bees. Sprays
made from these are rich in silica and calcium. Invigorating for plants
and improves their disease resistance. Leaving the mixture to rot, it
then makes an excellent liquid feed. Comfrey improves the liquid feed
even more. Hairs on the nettles' leaves contain formic acid which
"stings" you.
ONIONS: Planting chamomile and summer savory with
onions improves their flavor. Other companions are carrot, leek, beets,
kohlrabi, strawberries, brassicas, dill, lettuce and tomatoes.
Intercropping onions and leeks with your carrots confuses the carrot and
onion flies! Onions planted with strawberries help the berries fight
disease. Keep onions away from peas and asparagus.
OPAL BASIL: An annual herb that is pretty, tasty and said to repel hornworms!
OREGANO: Can be used with most crops but especially
good for cabbage. Plant near broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower to repel
cabbage butterfly and near cucumbers to repel cucumber beetle. Also
benefits grapes.
PARSLEY: Allies: Asparagus, carrot, chives, onions,
roses and tomato. Sprinkle the leaves on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as
a tea to ward off asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go
to seed to attract the tiny parasitic wasps and hoverflies. Parsley
increases the fragrance of roses when planted around their base. Mint
and parsley are enemies. Keep them well away from one another.
PEAS: Peas fix nitrogen in the soil. Plant next to
corn. Companions for peas are bush beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Celery,
Chicory, Corn Cucumber, Eggplant, Parsley, Early Potato, Radish,
Spinach, Strawberry, Sweet pepper and Turnips. Do not plant peas with
onions.
PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths, aphids and
flea beetles. It is the menthol content in mints that acts as an insect
repellant. Bees and other good guys love it.
PEPPERS, BELL (Sweet Peppers): Plant peppers near
tomatoes, parsley, basil, geraniums, marjoram, lovage, petunia and
carrots. Onions make an excellent companion plant for peppers. They do
quite well with okra as it shelters them and protects the brittle stems
from wind. Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. They should also
not be grown near apricot trees because a fungus that the pepper is
prone to can cause a lot of harm to the apricot tree. Peppers can double
as ornamentals, so tuck some into flowerbeds and borders. Harvesting
tip: The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even
though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers can be
harvested at any stage of growth, but their flavor doesn't fully
develop until maturity.
PEPPERS, HOT: Chili peppers have root exudates that
prevent root rot and other Fusarium diseases. Plant anywhere you have
these problems. Teas made from hot peppers can be useful as insect
sprays. Hot peppers like to be grouped with cucumbers, eggplant,
escarole, tomato, okra, Swiss chard and squash. Herbs to plant near them
include: basils, oregano, parsley and rosemary.
PENNYROYAL: Repels fleas. The leaves when crushed and rubbed onto your skin will repel chiggers, flies, gnats, mosquitoes and ticks.
Warning:
Pennyroyal is highly toxic to cats. It should not be planted where cats
might ingest it and never rubbed onto their skin.
PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle,
leafhoppers, certain aphids, tomato worms, Mexican bean beetles and
general garden pests. A good companion to tomatoes, but plant
everywhere. The leaves can be used in a tea to make a potent bug spray.
POACHED EGG PLANT: Grow poached egg plant with tomatoes, they will attract hover flies and hover flies eat aphids.
POTATO: Companions for potatoes are bush bean,
members of the cabbage family, carrot, celery, corn, dead nettle, flax,
horseradish, marigold, peas, petunia, onion and Tagetes marigold.
Protect them from scab by putting comfrey leaves in with your potato
sets at planting time. Horseradish, planted at the corners of the potato
patch, provides general protection. Don't plant these around potatoes:
asparagus, cucumber, kohlrabi, parsnip, pumpkin, rutabaga, squash
family, sunflower, turnip and fennel. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart
as they both can get early and late blight contaminating each other.
PUMPKINS: Pumpkin pals are corn, melon and squash.
Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles. Oregano
provides general pest protection.
PURSLANE: This edible weed makes good ground cover
in the corn patch. Use the stems, leaves and seeds in stir-frys. Pickle
the green seed pod for caper substitutes. If purslane is growing in your
garden it means you have healthy, fertile soil!
RADISH: One of the workhorses for the garden. Companions
for radishes are: radish, beet, bush beans, pole beans, carrots,
chervil, cucumber, lettuce, melons, nasturtium, parsnip, peas, spinach
and members of the squash family. Why plant radishes with your squash
plants? Radishes may protect them from squash borers. Anything that will
help keep them away is worth a try. Radishes are a deterrent against
cucumber beetles and rust flies. Chervil and nasturtium improve radish
growth and flavor. Planting them around corn and letting them go to seed
will also help fight corn borers. Chinese Daikon and Snow Belle
radishes are favorites of flea beetles. Plant these at 6 to 12 inch
intervals amongst broccoli. In one trial, this measurably reduced damage
to broccoli. Radishes will lure leafminers away from spinach. The
damage the leafminers do to radish leaves does not stop the radish roots
from growing, a win-win situation. Keep radishes away from hyssop
plants, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and turnips.
RHUBARB: A good companion to all brassicas. Try
planting cabbage and broccoli plants your rhubarb patch watch them
thrive. Rhubarb protects beans against black fly. Some other interesting
companions for rhubarb are the beautiful columbine flowers, garlic,
onion and roses! It helps deter red spider mites from the columbines. A
spray made from boiled rhubarb leaves, which contain the poison oxalic
acid may be used to prevent blackspot on roses and as an aphicide.
ROSEMARY: Companion plant to cabbage, beans,
carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies.
Use cuttings to place by the crowns of carrots for carrot flies. Zones 6
and colder can overwinter rosemary as houseplants or take cuttings.
RUE: Deters
aphids, fish moths, flea beetle, onion maggot, slugs, snails, flies and
Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries. Companions for rue are
roses, fruits (in particular figs), raspberries and lavender. To make it
even more effective with Japanese beetles: crush a few leaves to
release the smell. Has helped repel cats for us. You should not plant
rue near cucumbers, cabbage, basil or sage. A pretty perennial with
bluish-gray leaves. May be grown indoors in a sunny window. Rue may
cause skin irritation in some individuals.
RYE: An excellent use of plant
allelopathy is the use of mow-killed grain rye as a mulch. The
allelochemicals that leach from the rye residue prevent weed germination
but do not harm transplanted tomatoes, broccoli, or many other
vegetables.
SAGE: Use as a companion plant with broccoli,
cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths,
beetles, black flea beetles and carrot flies. Do not plant near
cucumbers, onions or rue. Sage repels cabbage moths and black flea
beetles. Allowing sage to flower will also attract many beneficial
insects and the flowers are pretty. There are some very striking
varieties of sage with variegated foliage that can be used for their
ornamental as well as practical qualities.
SPINACH: Plant with peas and beans as they provide
natural shade for the spinach. Gets along with cabbage, cauliflower,
celery, eggplant, onion, peas, strawberries.
SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and here and there
in the garden. Wonderful lemony scent when crushed or brushed in
passing. Roots easily from cuttings. Does not like fertilizer! It is a
perennial that can get quite bushy. We have started to cut it back every
spring and it comes back in not time. A delightful plant that is
virtually pest free.
SOYBEANS: They add nitrogen to the soil making them a
good companion to corn. They repel chinch bugs and Japanese beetles.
Why not try soybeans, they are good for you. They are many tasty ways to
prepare them.
SQUASH: Companions: Corn, cucumbers, icicle
radishes, melon and pumpkin. Helpers: Borage deters worms, improves
growth and flavor. Marigolds deters beetle. Nasturtium deters squash
bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
STRAWBERRY: Friends are beans, borage, lettuce,
onions, spinach and thyme. Foes: Cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts,
cauliflower and kohlrabi. Allies: Borage strengthens resistance to
insects and disease. Thyme, as a border, deters worms.
SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions to
improve growth and flavor. Discourages cabbage moths, Mexican bean
beetles and black aphids. Honey bees love it.
SUNFLOWERS: Planting sunflowers
with corn is said by some to increase the yield. Aphids a
problem? Definitely plant a few sunflowers here and there in the garden.
Step back and watch the ants herd the aphids onto them. We have been
doing this for years and it is remarkable. The sunflowers are so tough
that the aphids cause very little damage and you will have nice seed
heads for the birds to enjoy. Sunflowers also attract hummingbirds which
eat whiteflies. Talk about a symbiotic relationship!
SWEET ALYSSUM: Direct seed or set out starts of
sweet alyssum near plants that have been attacked by aphids in the past.
Alyssum flowers attract hoverflies whose larva devour aphids. Another
plus is their blooms draw bees to pollinate early blooming fruit trees.
They will reseed freely and make a beautiful groundcover every year.
TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries
keeping in mind that it can be invasive and is not the most attractive
of plants. Tansy which is often recommended as an ant repellant may only
work on sugar type ants. These are the ones that you see on peonies and
marching into the kitchen. At least for us placing tansy clippings by
the greenhouse door has kept them out. Deters flying insects, Japanese
beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, ants and mice! Tie up
and hang a bunch of tansy leaves indoors as a fly repellent. Use
clippings as a mulch as needed. Don't be afraid to cut the plant up as
tansy will bounce back from any abuse heaped on it! It is also a helpful
addition to the compost pile with its' high potassium content.
- Tansy Warning: You do not want to plant Tansy anywhere
that livestock can feed on it as it is toxic to many animals. Do not let
it go to seed either as it may germinate in livestock fields.
TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one. Recommended to enhance growth and flavor of vegetables.
THYME: Deters cabbage worms. Wooly thyme makes a
wonderful groundcover. You may want to use the upright form of thyme in
the garden rather than the groundcover types. Thyme is easy to grow from
seeds or cuttings. Older woody plants should be divided in spring.
TOMATOES: Tomato allies are many: asparagus, basil,
bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold,
mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pepper, marigold, pot marigold and sow
thistle. One drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can
stunt the growth of your carrots but the carrots will still be of good
flavor. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor.
Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor. Borage deters
tomato worm, improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves
growth and health, mature dill retards tomato growth. Enemies: corn and
tomato are attacked by the same worm. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth.
Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late
blight contaminating each other. Keep cabbage and cauliflower away from
them. Don't plant them under walnut trees as they will get walnut wilt: a
disease of tomatoes growing underneath walnut trees.
WHITE GERANIUMS: These members of the pelargonum family draw Japanese beetles to feast on the foliage which in turn kills them.
WORMWOOD: Keeps animals out of the garden when
planted as a border. An excellent deterrent to most insects. Don’t plant
wormwood with peas or beans. A tea made from wormwood will repel
cabbage moths, slugs, snails, black flea beetles and fleas effectively.
The two best varieties for making insect spray are Silver King and Powis
Castle. Adversely Powis castle attracts ladybugs which in turn breed
directly on the plant. Silver Mound is great as a border plant and the
most toxic wormwood. Note: As wormwood actually produces a botanical
poison do not use it directly on food crops.
YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and
is an excellent natural fertilizer. A handful of yarrow leaves added to
the compost pile really speeds things up. Try it! It also attracts
predatory wasps and ladybugs to name just two. It may increase the
essential oil content of herbs when planted among them.
ZINNIA: Pretty zinnias attract hummingbirds which
eat whiteflies. Alternately the pastel varieties of zinnias can be used
as a trap crop for Japanese beetles. All zinnias attract bees and other
insect pollinators.
Boost your tomatoes with companion planting